Aokigahara Jukai, literally
translated as “The Sea of Trees,” is a dense forest skirting the base of Mt.
Fuji in Japan. It is a strange forest,
an interesting eco-system where trees and undergrowth have grown over volcanic
rock silted up more than 1200 years ago from one of Mt. Fuji’s major
eruptions. A deep, web-like blanket of
lichen connects the trees in the deepest part of the forest, giving the
appearance of firm ground but in fact hiding deep crevices in the lava base
underneath. The outskirts of the forest
have been redeveloped as nature walks, and on the edge of the deepest part of
the sea of trees are two caves regularly visited by tourists interested in
exploring and photographing the unique geology and ice formations inside.
This alone would make Aokigahara
Jukai an interesting feature of Japan, one that might appeal to naturalists and
“ecological” tourists, but little more.
But in fact, Aokigahara is infamous, notorious, a horror unto itself,
and the most haunted place in the world.When I started this series I had this place in mind as a definite for my list of Most Haunted Places in the World. It was only after really researching it, studying it, gazing mutely at the disturbing images of real suicide victims in states of morbid suspended animation in little nooks and crannies of this immense, sad sea of trees that I realized this was the most haunting place I had ever encountered. Long after the computer was turned off, over a long period of days, the images and the story continued to haunt me like nothing I have ever experienced. I could not get it off my mind. That a place could have such power, could convey such unnerving emotion merely through cyberspace glances of its ghostly reality, convinced me this place simply had to be number one.
Aokigahara Jukai is a place I
never want to visit. Others who have encountered
this forest firsthand often use the other name for it, “Kuroi Jukai,” or “Black
Sea of Trees,” to describe it, and have all returned from it with the same
impression: it is the scariest and most disturbing place on earth, and a place
they never, ever want to visit again.
Aokigahara Jukai has a history of
being associated with death and evil spirits long before it became a popular
place for suicide. Ubasute, the practice
of abandoning the elderly and infirm, was allegedly performed in Japan at least
until feudal times when harvests were poor, or drought and famine prevailed in
the land. The forest at the feet of Mt.
Fuji was one of the notable places where the practice was common.
Deep inside the forest the air is
thick and everything is green. An eerie
silence prevails and one is suddenly conscious of the profundity of that
silence – there is no birdsong, the wind blows but the leaves of the trees
never rustle, even the spongy, lichen-choked ground swallows the sound of
footsteps. Fear soon becomes the
visitor’s constant companion: fear of
getting lost, fear of seeing the remnants of a suicidal death, fear of seeing
another living person in there with you, perhaps trying to summon up the
courage to go through with the deed.
Death is all around and by now the visitor just wants to get the hell
out.
I said above that I would never
want to visit Aokigahara Jukai even if I had the opportunity to do so. Certainly, my interest in folklore, ghosts,
and hauntings makes the forest an attractive subject, but this in itself is
almost embarrassing to admit: simply put, no matter what my interests, there is
nothing at all attractive about an open grave.
Aokigahara Jukai is just such a thing – an open grave. Under the choking canopy of tangled vines and
thick tree branches is, essentially, a mass grave where the dead lay atop the
ground to decompose, to be disturbed by scavenger animals, to deteriorate and
be rendered into ecological matter – and all in sight of the living, if the
living so choose. In addition to the
myriad emotions Aokigahara Jukai evokes in us, it also casts us – the living –
in roles with which we are not comfortable.
In the end, Aokigahara Jukai is the face of death looking directly at
us, and we are left with all the guilt of a morbid voyeur, one who has been
caught out looking at things he or she cannot conceive of, things he or she
should never have to see.
Anyone who has visited Aokigahara Jukai and written about it has felt the need to add a disclaimer for their readers. This seems to mostly be fueled by that voyeur’s guilt just mentioned, the knee-jerk reaction of being caught in the act of looking at something horrible and being fascinated by it. Once exposed, the writer seeks to feel obligated to distance him- or herself and the words that follow end up seeming perfunctory and forced. They went, they saw, and they were fascinated even by the corpses rotting in clear view, and this, they feel overwhelmingly, is wrong. Then comes the expected disclaimer that anyone contemplating suicide should not visit Aokigahara Jukai, should stop and think, as the forest’s signs say, about family and loved ones, about the precious gift of life. And this last is something I am completely in agreement with.
Life is precious and there is at
least one thing in each person’s life that makes the thought of suicide heinous
to contemplate. Even if you are someone
who feels God has somehow “tricked” you, has put those people or things into
your life because He knew you’d have to struggle and couldn’t just opt for an
easy way out. But many thousands of
people across the world stop to think about these things, and then proceed to
take their lives anyway.
So I, too, will add a
disclaimer: If you or someone you know
is contemplating or has contemplated suicide, do not hesitate to get help
immediately. It is never so bad that
death is a better option. Tell a friend,
confide in family, tell your doctor, or go to a hospital. There’s no shame in it, and this is the usual place where healing begins. If the
hauntings of Aokigahara Jukai tell us anything, it is that.
"The Perfect Place"
A short documentary film by a pair of Swedish filmmakers who enter Aokigahara Jukai as skeptics - even more than once suggesting to each other that what they were seeing were "props" - but who leave fully consumed by the moribund spell that it Japan's Suicide Forest.
How to Get There, Where to Stay .
. .
The starting point for a journey
to Aokigahara Jukai is the town of Kawaguchiko, the last stop before Mt. Fuji
and the forest. Kawaguchiko can be
reached directly by train or bus from Tokyo, a two and a half hour trip (so start out
early) that will set you back approximately ¥2600 (cash only). In July and August the buses can be crowded
with hikers and mountain climbers heading out to the trails of Mt. Fuji.
There are guest houses and
hostels in the Kawaguchiko area, and referrals to these locations are easier to
come by. Don’t expect anything fancy,
but the places are described as clean and comfortable. There are restaurants and cafes in Kawaguchiko,
and convenience type stores where you can purchase miscellaneous supplies.
If You Go . . .
Paranormalists have visited and
investigated Aokigahara Jukai before with mixed results; even filmmakers not
intent on capturing anything supernatural have found evidence of it on their
film. However, even considering the
numerous physical challenges of this natural location, the one thing the
paranormal researcher or investigator should always keep prominently in mind is
the very real danger posed by the unhappy spirits of literally hundreds of
suicides that have occurred here in modern times alone. Occult tradition teaches that the spirits of
suicide victims are forced into a state similar to what is described as
purgatory: the manufactured cessation of life and the interrupted course of
development experienced by these spirits condemn them to remain in this
in-between state for what would have been the natural span of their lives. Paradoxically, then, the ultimate act of free
will – self-killing – actually locks the spirit in an unhappy, unsatisfied
state. These spirits who, for whatever
reason, were desperate enough to murder themselves, and who are now stuck in
that realization, will not hesitate to attach or obsess the living in order to
vicariously experience life again or, more dangerously, to drive the living to
a similar end. Paranormalists actively
seeking spirit contact inside the gloom of Aokigahara Jukai may very well get
much more than they ever expected. In
the end, then, it might be best to be satisfied with just knowing this place
exists, and to explore it from a distance, rather than seeking to experience it
firsthand.
Travel Blogger Punynari ventured into Aokigahara Jukai alone, on a less-than-picture-perfect day and managed to capture some of the eternal spookiness - and to scare himself as well! Here is his You Tube posting:
Images and Additional insight can be found at the following blogs:
Punynari's Island Adventures:
End of the Game Blog: My Journey to Aokigahara Jukai
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